Beejhy Barhany, the founding owner and executive chef of Tsion Café in Harlem, NY, brings us on a culinary journey from Ethiopia, to Israel, and to New York in her new cookbook, Gursha. Through the recipes, Beejhy offers readers a unique opportunity to explore over one hundred dishes that reflect her rich cultural experiences. From Ethiopian and Israeli classics like doro wot and shakshuka, to innovative fusions such as Berbere Fried Fish and Injera Fish Tacos, Beejhy invites us to experience the flavors that have shaped her life and identity.
Beejhy Barhany’s story is as compelling as the dishes she creates. Born in Ethiopia and raised primarily in Israel, she moved to New York in 2001, driven by a passion for food and culture. In 2003, she founded the BINA Cultural Foundation, an organization dedicated to empowering the Beta Israel (Ethiopian Jewish) community in the United States. As a frequent cooking teacher and speaker at Jewish cultural events, Beejhy’s commitment to sharing her heritage is evident. She lives in Harlem with her husband and two children, where she continues to weave her cultural narrative into every aspect of her culinary work.
Tsion Café, launched in 2014, embodies Beejhy’s vision of nourishing both the body and soul. Located in Harlem’s historic Sugar Hill neighborhood, the café offers a fully vegan and kosher menu that harmonizes Ethiopian and Israeli flavors with the vibrant culinary landscape of New York.
“I’m very proud of being a Black, Ethiopian, Jewish, Woman in New York City,” Barhany shares. “I try to bring who I am on a plate. Our menu is very eclectic. A little world celebrating Jewish Diaspora through food.” While the restaurant’s dishes honor Ethiopia and Israel, the space itself honors Harlem’s rich artist history and commitment to community by featuring art by local artists, live music, and poetry nights.
Beejhy’s philosophy on food resonates deeply with the mission of her restaurant and the inspiration for her new cookbook. “In the Ethiopian language of Amharic, ‘gursha’ means the act of feeding one another,” she explains. This cultural value reflects her upbringing in a household where cooking was a communal activity, fostering a sense of hospitality and connection. “Food broadens people’s understanding of who you are,” she reflects, emphasizing its power to bridge cultural divides and promote empathy. Through her dishes, Beejhy seeks to expand understanding and appreciation for the complexities of the African diaspora.
In Gursha, readers will not only find recipes, but also stories that connect them to ancient Ethiopian Jewish rituals, holidays, and milestones. The cookbook serves as a gateway to the rich tapestry of cultures that Beejhy embodies and celebrates. As she puts it, “I hope that people appreciate the delicious Ethiopian Jewish cuisine and the skill involved in creating it.”
To celebrate her book’s release, Beejhy joins renowned Jewish chefs and cookbook authors Leah Koenig, Yael Raviv and Jeffrey Yoskowitz for a lively conversation (and tasting) about “What Makes Food Jewish?” on Wednesday, May 21, at 7 PM at the 14th Street Y. Together, they’ll share personal stories, explore how food connects us to history and culture, and discuss the ways flavors shape identity.
Gursha is an opportunity to enrich our kitchens and expand our palates. Through her recipes and stories, Beejhy invites us all to partake in the act of feeding one another, and to honor the diversity of Jewish cuisine. Let your culinary journey begin by getting your copy of Gursha here and register to join Beejhy’s event here.
